One name is missing from a beginner's guide, and it is the one that started the whole Milanese branch: Fernet-Branca, made in Milan since 1845. It follows your exact path, herbs plus alcohol plus a medicinal claim, and it was sold as a remedy for cholera and stomach trouble long before anyone drank it for pleasure. From behind a counter I can add the part the histories skip: the amaro is the most underrated line on a restaurant's books. High margin, slow rotation, and its real job is not digestion, it is keeping the table for another ten minutes and ending the evening well. What has changed in Milan in the last ten years is who orders it. It used to be the older men after dinner, now it is people in their thirties, and often before dinner rather than after.
Amaro del Capo is made in southern Italy and it is definitely my favorite! Another one that can only be found in certain areas of the south is Amaro Jefferson
When we were recently in Umbria, we stumbled upon a great hard to find restaurant in Perugia. The first time we ate there, we were “interviewed” by the owner as we paid, and offered un bicchierino di amaro. I had not had any since I used to use it with good, sweet vermouth in my Manhattans (which are always better using rye than bourbon). Cheers!
One name is missing from a beginner's guide, and it is the one that started the whole Milanese branch: Fernet-Branca, made in Milan since 1845. It follows your exact path, herbs plus alcohol plus a medicinal claim, and it was sold as a remedy for cholera and stomach trouble long before anyone drank it for pleasure. From behind a counter I can add the part the histories skip: the amaro is the most underrated line on a restaurant's books. High margin, slow rotation, and its real job is not digestion, it is keeping the table for another ten minutes and ending the evening well. What has changed in Milan in the last ten years is who orders it. It used to be the older men after dinner, now it is people in their thirties, and often before dinner rather than after.
Amaro del Capo is made in southern Italy and it is definitely my favorite! Another one that can only be found in certain areas of the south is Amaro Jefferson
Now I need to know your opinion of Malört!
Jokes aside, I have tried fewer of these than I’d like to admit, looking forward to trying some more. Thanks for the list.
Del capo ❤️ great article, saving it to check out the other types of amaro when I'll be in Bergamo in October
When we were recently in Umbria, we stumbled upon a great hard to find restaurant in Perugia. The first time we ate there, we were “interviewed” by the owner as we paid, and offered un bicchierino di amaro. I had not had any since I used to use it with good, sweet vermouth in my Manhattans (which are always better using rye than bourbon). Cheers!